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How a floor is built: the layers under your feet

A floor is more than the boards you see. It’s a stack of layers, and each one affects how the floor looks, sounds and lasts.

Floorencisco · Updated October 2026 · 3 min read

OSB subfloor with layout markings

1. The structure

In most Bay Area homes the floor sits on one of two things: wood joists over a crawl space or basement, or a concrete slab. Many older houses have raised wood framing. Newer homes and ground floors often sit on a slab.

The structure sets the rules. Wood framing can flex and squeak. Concrete can carry moisture up from the ground.

2. The subfloor

Old plank flooring during removal
Removing the old flooring exposes the base underneath.
Stripped slab and subfloor
Hidden damage We strip the old floor and check for moisture, damage and loose spots.

Over joists, the subfloor is plywood or OSB, or in older homes, boards laid across the joists. It has to be solid and dry. Loose spots cause squeaks, so they get fastened down. Damaged or wet sections get replaced before anything else goes on top.

On a slab, the concrete itself is the subfloor. It gets checked for cracks and moisture.

Squeaks and soft spots: We repair the subfloor and fasten it down so it stops moving.

Repairing the base

Flooring craftsman working on exposed subfloor framing
Working on the framing beneath the floor.
Exposed framing during subfloor repair
Subfloor repairs before the new surface goes in.
Craftsman working on the exposed subfloor
Repair work after the old floor has been removed.

3. Leveling

Finish floors need a flat base. Many manufacturers allow no more than 3/16 inch of variation over 10 feet. Some products and patterns, like herringbone, need tighter tolerances, such as 1/8 inch over 6 feet.

High spots get ground down. Low spots get filled with patch or self-leveling compound, applied over primer so it bonds and doesn’t crack later.

Priming and leveling, in practice

Priming the subfloor
Weak bond Primer helps the leveler grip, so it won’t crack or lift later.
Craftsman spreading compound across the floor
Spreading compound across the prepared base.
Leveling work in progress in a stripped room
The leveling stage before the floor is installed.
Craftsman working across the wet leveled surface
Working across the room during leveling.
Fresh leveling compound on a subfloor
Uneven floor Leveling compound fills the dips across the room.
Leveled surface before installation
Gaps and bounce A flat base keeps planks tight, with no gaps or hollow spots.

4. Underlayment

A thin layer between the subfloor and the finish floor. Depending on the product, it cushions the floor, quiets footsteps or blocks moisture from a slab. In condos it often has to meet the building’s sound rules. Some vinyl planks come with underlayment already attached.

5. The finish floor

The part you see: hardwood, engineered wood, vinyl plank, laminate, bamboo or cork. It gets nailed, glued or floated, depending on the product and what’s underneath. We explain the methods in How floors are installed.

The same room with the finished floor
A floor that lasts Then the floor goes in, on a base built to hold it.

The preparation photos show one room as the work progressed, from the stripped base to the finished floor.

6. Trim and transitions

Baseboards and quarter round hide the expansion gap at the walls. Transitions join rooms with different floors. Stair nosings finish the edge of every step.

When a layer is skipped

  • Squeaks usually mean a loose subfloor.
  • Gaps and clicking joints usually mean an uneven base.
  • Cupping or swelling usually means moisture from below.
  • Noise complaints in a condo usually mean the wrong underlayment.

Sources

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