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How floors are installed: floating, glue-down and nail-down

Most of the work happens before the first plank goes down. Here’s how a professional installation runs, step by step.

Floorencisco · Updated October 2026 · 4 min read

Herringbone layout and tools

How we work: from first hello to final inspection

No need to have every answer yet. We’ll start with your room and what you want to change.

  1. You contact us
  2. We visit the property
  3. We measure the area
  4. You get a free estimate
  5. We discuss the project
  6. We recommend materials
  7. You get the final quote
  8. We schedule installation
  9. We install the floor
  10. Final inspection

Start with your room: ask for a free estimate.

Before installation

  1. Remove the old floor. If it might contain asbestos, it gets tested first.
  2. Inspect and repair the subfloor. Fasten loose spots, replace damaged sections.
  3. Check moisture. In wood subfloors and concrete slabs.
  4. Check flatness. Grind high spots, level low ones.
  5. Acclimate the flooring. Wood needs time in the room at normal living conditions. One manufacturer suggests 3 to 5 days for oak. Other species and products differ.

See the removal, subfloor repair, priming and leveling photos in How a floor is built.

The three methods

Nail-down

The classic method for solid hardwood and many engineered floors over a wood subfloor. Each board is nailed or stapled through the tongue, so fasteners stay hidden.

Glue-down

Common for engineered wood and some vinyl over concrete. It needs a flat, dry slab and the adhesive the manufacturer specifies.

Floating

Click-together planks, such as most LVP, laminate and some engineered floors, lock to each other over an underlayment instead of being fastened down. It’s fast and works over many surfaces. Over an uneven base, a floating floor can feel hollow and the joints can open.

Craftsman working on plank flooring during installation
Fitting the planks as installation progresses.

Patterns and stairs

Herringbone starts with layout lines and a dead-straight first row. It needs a flatter base than straight planks. Some products ask for 1/8 inch over 6 feet.

Laying herringbone

Herringbone planks being laid over the prepared base
The herringbone pattern taking shape over the base.
Craftsman laying herringbone planks near a window
Placing the next boards as the pattern progresses.
Partially laid herringbone floor with tools
Herringbone installation in progress.
Completed herringbone flooring
The finished pattern.

Preparing and finishing stairs

Stairs get matching treads, risers and nosings, so the floor looks continuous from room to staircase.

Bare staircase after carpet removal
Stair preparation after the carpet is removed.
Stair nosings matched to the plank floor
Nosings matched to the floor on every step.

Finishing

Every floor needs an expansion gap at the walls. Baseboards or quarter round cover it. Transitions join rooms with different floors.

The manufacturer’s guide wins

Each product has its own installation instructions, and the warranty usually depends on following them. When a general rule and the guide disagree, we follow the guide.

Sources

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